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Cosima von Bonin’s sculptures star in Loewe’s fall/winter 2026 runway show. | Artsy

Loewe Keeps Looking to Contemporary Art, This Time with Cosima von Bonin at the Center of Its Fall/Winter 2026 Show

When a luxury runway turns into a kind of moving exhibition, the message is usually clear: the brand wants you to look longer. For Loewe’s fall/winter 2026 runway show, that invitation came through the work of German artist Cosima von Bonin (b. 1962), whose sculptures took a starring role in the presentation.

Von Bonin’s presence at Loewe is not a one-off gesture. Her sculptures also served as a starting point for the house’s spring/summer 2026 collection, underscoring how the brand is using contemporary art not simply as set dressing, but as a conceptual engine for design.

The approach fits a pattern Loewe has been building for years, in which artists’ practices become a lens for thinking about silhouette, surface, and mood. Past runway shows and collections have drawn on collaborations with American sculptor Lynda Benglis (b. 1941), Italian painter and installation artist Lara Favaretto (b. 1973), and Los Angeles–based painter Richard Hawkins (b. 1961). The through line is less about literal translation than about atmosphere: sculpture’s physicality, installation’s sense of staging, painting’s psychological charge.

That art-facing posture is also institutional. The Loewe Foundation has announced the shortlist of finalists for the 2026 Loewe Craft Prize, the brand-backed award that has become a closely watched barometer for contemporary craft across disciplines. The winner will be announced on May 12, 2026.

Taken together, the runway and the prize point to a broader strategy: Loewe is positioning craft and contemporary art as parallel languages, each capable of carrying ideas about labor, material intelligence, and cultural memory. In an era when fashion’s visual references can feel disposable, the brand’s repeated return to artists like von Bonin suggests a slower, more deliberate kind of influence — one that asks audiences to read a collection the way they might read an artwork.

With the Craft Prize decision set for May, and von Bonin’s sculptures already shaping two 2026 collections, Loewe’s next chapter looks less like a seasonal pivot than an ongoing conversation between studio practice and the runway.

Helen

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